esngblog

And can you guess what it is, from the picture below?

I’ve decided to go DCC for this layout.  I’ve already got the point operation bits to operate them on DCC, but I’ll also go for digital train operation.  Why, on a small layout:

• Easier wiring for a terminus that will need one or more isolating section on each platform and siding.
• Easier wiring for the traverser/sector plate.
• Easier wiring between baseboards.
• Can keep more than one loco/EMU parked closely on a track.

It will be easy enough (if a little expensive) to convert the stock to DCC, as most are DCC ready, anyhow.

So the picture above shows the two power buses, one for track, one for points.  I prefer to keep them separate, so that any electrical problems are easier to locate.

I decided to build the trackwork in-situ, but the board for the station throat on viaduct is not fixed, and I can work on it on the workbench.  Here, I’ve trimmed the Finetrax bases to fit the track layout, and glued them down.

A little fiddle was needed to wire up one frog.  It lies on a road bridge, so I used solid wire and chased it into the bridge soffit.  Not very neat, but will be hidden.

The frogs have a wire for power soldered underneath and fed through the baseboard.  I’ve also added the check rails.

First length of track in place!  The end of the board uses some pre-cut copper-clad sleeper sections that I bought from the states a while back.  The sleepers are too close, but this track will be hidden by the trackside buildings, and will form a strong end to the board.   One reason to lay out the point bases early in construction is to use as much ‘continuous’ rail as possible, and avoid joints and extra droppers being needed.  Here, the rail runs from one point up to the frog of the crossover.

A close up of the frog.

Getting the individual chairs into place is a fiddly job, and I’ve lost a few as they ping across the room.  However, like many other jobs, it’s a matter of working out a technique, and using the right tools.  I have found it easiest to place one chair at a time, but to thread each one onto a short length of rail and then locate it into the sleeper base.  The rail threads through the chairs easily enough, providing one files the rail end slightly to allow it to slip into the chair.  After getting the rail in place, a wash of solvent fixes chairs, and actually the rail as well.

Next adventure will be to try and file up a set of point blades.

First, a contrast in packaging…..

Believe it or not, these two packages, each from a well known box-shifter, have the same contents.  Namely, two of these aquatic creatures….

They’re lovely models, but I wish that I had remembered that I’d already ordered two.

Meanwhile, back at the railway, I’ve made my first lengths of Finetrax.  Two very short lengths, that was a helpful exercise to get the idea of threading the rail through the sleepers, and also getting the rail the right way up.

The reason for the short lengths?  It’s to take these two ex-LSWR buffer stops, a very nice etch from the 2mm Association.

One buffer stop complete.  I’ve replace the metal buffer cross-piece with plastic card, as it’s neater than layering up the metal one provided.  This picture is, of course, cruel, but it is probably larger than real-life size when you look at it.

And two buffers.  The whole etch is very neat.  The side rails are six layers of metal thick, but the etch is designed to fold over on itself to get everything lined up.  Held together with solder paint, it works very well.

I’ve also discovered a new toy – some of this UV-activated glue that you can get.  It’s much as the stuff they fill your teeth with these days, and my tube came with a little UV light to cure the glue.  It seems better than superglue, as it is adjustable until you apply the light.

The other job that I’ve done is to mark out the track again, using the proper Finetrax track spacing of 23mm, that tidies up the geometry a bit – and gives half-an-inch extra on the platform length.  Next task will be to try and build my first point.

Well, the vapour-free impact glue dropped through the door, and I was able to get going on the railway again.  I had already put together the roof sections for the bridges under the station.  Just a simple girder representation from plasticard, but rather satisfying to make.

I then wired up all the LED street lamps for the tunnels.  Although nominally 12V (with resistors fitted), I tried connecting all eight of them to a simple 4.5V battery pack.  This seems to work fine, and I hope that the LEDs will last longer than the railway!

The walls are brick embossed plasticard.  They’ve been given a whitewashed finish (probably dating from the blitz blackout), then weathered a bit.  Road is embossed card cobblestones.  A bit large – more like granite setts, but they look better than a flat paper finish.  Pavements are again embossed plasticard, weathered a bit with some individual stones picked out.  And in the foreground, note the gulley and manhole covers from Severn Models.  A tiny detail, but they look good, and are thin enough to sit on top of the road.

Road vehicles added.  I took the Oxford bus a lorry apart and added a driver.  Fiddly, but worth doing.

And here’s the final effect.

Last step was to fix the upper baseboard on top.  I now have no excuse for starting the trackwork!  I’ve worked out where and how to fix the point motors in place, and am also considering where to put droppers onto the track.  Using code 40 track is more tricky than Peco, as you can’t get away with the fishplates to carry current between track, and I’m aiming to pre-solder all the wires, to avoid melting the point bases.  Not easy…..